Stéphane Moreau’s vision is continued on by his assistant winemaker and wife Virginie, who produce lifted, Dauvissat-style wines amongst the new generation of Chablis producers. Fruit for ‘Montée de Tonnerre’ comes from 50-year-old vines rooted in the renowned Chapelot lieu-dit, which is dominated by sandy Kimmeridgian limestone soils. Perhaps the most mineral-driven of all of Moreau-Naudet’s wines, this bottle oozes with flavors of seashells, gunflint, lemon zest, and chalk. Pair with raw bar favorites or freshly shucked oysters. Although delicious in its youth, this wine will only become more complex and textured with time. Drink now, lay down, or do both.